Last Updated on April 5, 2026
On a beautiful, sunny day in early October, my mother and I took a day trip to Atami aboard the Saphir Odoriko, a luxury sightseeing train from Tokyo.
If you’re planning a day trip to Atami or considering riding this train, this guide shares practical tips, costs, and firsthand experiences to help you make the most of your journey—from choosing the best seats to enjoying local food and relaxing by the sea.
What you’ll find in this guide:
- How to ride the Saphir Odoriko, including seats, facilities, and tips
- How to save on tickets and choose the best seats for the view
- What to do in Atami on a day trip, from seafood lunch to seaside walks
- A relaxing spa experience at Atami Bay Resort
- Travel tips for getting around and avoiding crowds
The Saphir Odoriko
The Saphir Odoriko is a luxury train connecting Tokyo and the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture, offering a more premium experience than Limited Express Odoriko. All seats are Green Car class or higher, providing more space and comfort than standard seats.
The train features the following facilities (from the front of the train when heading toward Atami):
- Premium Green Car: Even more luxurious than the Green Car
- Private Rooms: Quiet, private spaces for relaxing
- Cafeteria: A place to enjoy light meals and drinks
- Green Car: Upgraded seating compared to standard cars
Note: If you are using a Japan Rail Pass, you need a Green Car Pass to ride the Saphir Odoriko, as it has no ordinary seats. An additional fee is required to reserve Premium Green seats.
Starting the Day at Ekinaka
My mother and I met at Shinagawa Station to begin our journey. We met early to enjoy some morning coffee at Ecute before boarding the Saphir Odoriko. I want to maximize every minute while my children are at school. Even while waiting for a train, I look for interesting spots to visit.
As I watched the various travelers passing by, I truly enjoyed the beginning of my journey away from daily life. Hearing the cheerful chatter of travelers pulling their suitcases made me feel like I was finally free from the daily household chores. It was a wonderful moment to relax and feel the excitement of my trip before boarding the train.
Ecute is a shopping area located inside Shinagawa Station. This type of in-station shopping is called “Ekinaka” in Japan. Found in larger JR East stations, it lets you enjoy coffee, snacks, or pick up gifts before boarding your train, making it very convenient for travelers starting or finishing their journey.
Boarding the Premium Green Car
The Premium Green seats are limited to only 18 per train, making them highly popular. The train had been fully booked until a few days before, but a last-minute vacancy opened up. Thinking it was a good opportunity, we booked the Premium Green seats this time.
As soon as I stepped into the cabin, it felt as though I had just walked into a luxury hotel lobby. The spaciousness and the scent of the new train immediately made me feel that this journey was going to be something special.
Each seat is independent and private. The seats can be rotated in any direction, so groups can gather together comfortably, while solo travelers can turn their seat toward the window to enjoy the view in greater privacy.
I was impressed by the beautiful craftsmanship of the quilted seats. They aren’t just stylish; they support your body so comfortably that even a long journey feels like a treat. The seats feature electric reclining, a built-in reading light, and a storable mini-table in the armrest. Everything you need for a cozy trip is right at your fingertips.
Tasting Local Flavors
The Saphir Odoriko has a dedicated cafeteria car, but we decided to enjoy our special gelato at our wonderful seats. This gelato is produced by a chef from Atami who also supervises the cafeteria menu.
My mother and I spent those first few moments adjusting our seats and chatting about how comfortable they were. Just as we finally settled in to relax, the chilled gelato was served. The refreshing taste of local mandarin oranges, wrapped in mellow milk, made me truly feel that we were finally on our way to Izu.
The cafeteria car is exclusive to those who order main courses, and it features a stylish counter and tables facing the window. It is such a charming space that I definitely want to try dining there someday. If you want to enjoy a meal in the café car, a slightly longer ride might be more enjoyable.
Ocean View
While enjoying the local flavors of Shizuoka, I saw the blue sea and many small fishing boats appearing on the left side. The autumn silver grass and the calm sea were very beautiful together. It was a wonderful moment to enjoy the peaceful transition of the seasons during our train ride.
The large windows are the main attraction of the Saphir Odoriko. When I looked up, I was amazed to see windows in the ceiling. They filled the cabin with soft, natural light, making the whole space feel incredibly open. It was such a treat to relax in my seat and watch the blue sky and trees passing by right above me.
The trip from Shinagawa to Atami takes about one hour and ten minutes on this luxurious limited express train. Although it was a short ride, we were very satisfied with the high-quality experience of scenery, flavors, and conversation. Rather than simply traveling from one place to another, the special seats and delicious sweets made the trip feel even more exciting and memorable.
How to Save on Train Tickets
Can you guess why we chose to board the Saphir Odoriko from Shinagawa instead of Tokyo Station? This is because the limited express fare category jumps significantly between Tokyo and Shinagawa when the destination is Atami.
The current Premium Green surcharge from Tokyo to Atami is now around ¥6,000 (approx. $37.9 / €32.8), while it is about ¥4,000 (approx. $25.3 / €21.8) from Shinagawa. Since the local train fare from Tokyo to Shinagawa is under ¥200 (approx. $1.3 / €1.1), this choice saves you money. The basic train fare is ¥1,980 (approx. $12.5 / €10.8), which you must pay in addition to the limited express surcharge.
You can choose to board at Tokyo Station to enjoy a relaxed departure or start from Shinagawa to save money. Both options offer a great experience, so you should pick the one that best fits your travel style. Reservations can be made either through JR East or via Klook.
Travel Tip: Save on Saphir Odoriko Fares
Boarding from Shinagawa instead of Tokyo Station can save you around ¥2,000 on the Premium Green surcharge. The local train fare between the two stations is less than ¥200, making this a simple way to enjoy luxury for less.
A Pro Tip: Avoid the Window Frames
I was in car one, so I chose an even-numbered seat. When heading toward Atami, as you can see in the top image, odd-numbered seats have thick window frames that block the view. You will definitely want to enjoy the grand views through large windows during a special train journey. It is always a good idea to check the seat layout in advance to find the best spot.
Luckily, we were able to get seats with large windows and slim frames, so I could focus entirely on the view. Without the tension of having to drive myself, I could simply soak in the excitement of traveling to somewhere new while watching the scenery drift by.
Note that when heading toward Tokyo, all the seats in the car are rotated to face the opposite direction, so even-numbered seats may have thick window frames.
Seat Selection Advice
To fully enjoy the ocean view when traveling toward Atami, choose even-numbered seats in Car 1. Odd-numbered seats have thicker window frames that may partially block your panoramic view of the coastline.
Arriving in Atami
As I introduced in a previous post, Atami is a traditional hot spring town on the eastern coast of the Izu Peninsula in Shizuoka Prefecture, famous for its seaside views and relaxing onsen.
We have finally arrived at Atami Station, where the Saphir Odoriko shines beautifully under the morning sun. Seeing the stunning sapphire blue of the train against the bright autumn sky made my heart swell with anticipation. We felt so excited for our adventure to begin that there was a new spring in my step as we headed toward the ticket gate.
On the opposite platform, there was a bright red train inspired by the local specialty, the Kinmedai fish (golden eye snapper). There are many unique sightseeing trains in Japan, and people of all ages—from children to adults—enjoy them in different ways.
Enjoying a Seafood Lunch
We first took a taxi to Densuke Chaya, where you can enjoy local fish with a beautiful ocean view. Since we could not find a reservation matching the train’s arrival time, we visited directly but it was full. According to the staff, it didn’t look like any tables would become available soon.
The Saphir Odoriko arrived in Atami a little after noon, and we reached the restaurant around 12:30 p.m. If you want to visit this restaurant, it’s better to come around 11:30 a.m. when it opens, rather than timing your visit with the Saphir Odoriko.
It was a shame that the restaurant we wanted to visit was full, but luckily I had a backup plan. We headed to my second choice instead, enjoying the streets of Atami along the way.
Masaru: Local Seafood Delights
Masaru is a popular local restaurant in Atami known for serving various kinds of fresh seafood dishes. It was a weekday lunchtime in autumn, and when we arrived, there happened to be an empty table. The restaurant is quite small, and most customers don’t stay long after their meals, so even if it’s a little busy, you should be able to get a seat quickly.
Savoring Local Horse Mackerel
I ordered The Aji (horse mackerel) tataki and my mother chose the fried set to share and enjoy together. Tataki is a Japanese dish where fish is finely chopped and served with fresh condiments. The Aji was surprisingly thick-cut, far exceeding my expectations for ‘tataki.’ Paired with the fragrant condiments, the texture was so firm and bouncy—a true taste of fresh, local seafood.
The fried horse mackerel was perfectly crispy on the outside while the fish remained light and fluffy inside. There’s a supermarket close to where I live that sells lots of fried foods, but freshly prepared and fried horse mackerel here is on a completely different level. The set meal includes rice, pickles, simmered taro, and miso soup alongside the delicious main seafood dish. The miso soup had a wonderful aroma, likely made from fresh fish scraps used to create a rich broth.
Normally I’m the one cooking for my family, so being served a beautifully prepared, balanced, and delicious meal was such a treat. It made me feel quietly happy and grateful. We enjoyed every bite until the end, pairing the meal with delicious miso soup and traditional pickles.
Strolling by the Sea
After enjoying a delicious lunch, we stepped out along the seaside. A Mediterranean-style deck and marina stretched out before us, and in the distance, we could see the Atami Korakuen Hotel, where we were heading next.
Fireworks events are held in this area throughout the year, with about five in both summer and autumn, and two in each of winter and spring. Some people watch from their hotels, while many others walk down to this waterfront area to enjoy the view. Traffic becomes extremely heavy on fireworks nights, so it’s best to avoid coming by car.
The sea breeze was just the right amount of cool, and it felt so refreshing. Gazing at the calm water and the seagulls, I loved that there was nothing rushing or busy about the scenery. While I wished we could have stayed overnight, we had to move on to our next spot for our journey home.
What’s That Castle?
Do you see the castle-like building on the hill? It’s a tourist attraction called Atami Castle, with an observation deck and a small amusement area. It’s a convenient spot if you want a view of Atami or are looking for something to do, but please note that it’s not a real historic castle.
Atami Bay Resort
Finally, we arrived at our last spot of the day, Atami Bay Resort. The complex includes a hotel, a spa facility, and a shopping mall for souvenirs. My mother and I planned to enjoy a luxurious day, so we had reserved a session at the newly opened spa facility.
Ocean Spa Fuua
Atami is a famous hot spring destination. This spa offers more than just outdoor hot spring baths, featuring a stylish infinity bath that seems to blend seamlessly with the vast ocean. Indoors, you can enjoy a variety of facilities, including a sauna with ocean views and a bath infused with hydrogen.
It was early October, and while it wasn’t particularly cold yet, the open-air baths were absolutely wonderful. The baths are located on a hill, offering panoramic views of the ocean and the town of Atami. My mother and I enjoyed trying out several of the different baths, spending a relaxing and fun time together. We also soaked in the hot spring baths, and it felt amazing to feel the cool breeze on my face while the hot spring water gradually warmed my body from within.
Spa Café
After completely warming up in the baths, we headed to the spa’s café. As soon as I walked in, I felt a sense of freedom. The high ceilings and natural décor made the space feel so light and airy. But the real highlight was the view—the blue of the sky and the sea stretched out as far as I could see, as if the café were part of the ocean itself.
A spa robe is included in the fee, so you can just stay in it and relax at the café. Best of all, you don’t need to carry any cash there. The wristband you receive at check-in serves both as your locker key and as a payment method. When you leave the facility, you simply settle the total amount for what you used.
Refreshing Drinks
Since neither of us drinks alcohol, we ordered a non-alcoholic cocktail “Sunset Beach”. It was made with orange and pineapple juice, and the refreshing taste felt perfect after warming up in the hot springs. Surrounded by natural wooden furniture, we spent a relaxing time together while enjoying the blue view of the sea and sky in the cozy atmosphere.
The orange juice at the bottom was sweet, while the pineapple juice on top had a slight tang. We enjoyed the gradual change in flavor as we drank, and sometimes mixed them together for a more tropical taste. Besides the flavor, the vibrant colors—resembling a beautiful sunset—were also part of the charm. Since Atami is located on the eastern coast, you can’t see a full sunset over the sea, but it made me imagine how beautiful the seaside must look at dusk.
A wide variety of drinks were available, ranging from bottled beverages to local beer, local sodas, and smoothies. They also offered snacks and light meals. Of course, if you’re looking for a more substantial meal, there is also a restaurant available. It’s the restaurant called Harbor’s W that I mentioned in a previous post, and you can access it through a dedicated passageway and enter while still wearing your spa robe.
View from the Café
Looking out the window, we could see a white ferry departing from Atami Port. Not far from Atami is Hatsushima, a small island that can be reached by boat in about 30 minutes. I’ve tried to plan a visit several times, but so far it hasn’t worked out. The island doesn’t seem to have a beach, but there are restaurants near the port and facilities where you can enjoy resort-style camping.
The white ferry looked so beautiful against the deep blue of the sea. It was a scene that felt like a postcard, perfect for the end of our wonderful day. After savoring our drinks at the spa café, though we wished we could stay longer, we left the spa.
We only visited this cafe, but there are various other themed rest areas in the complex as well. You could visit with a group and enjoy chatting over a delicious drink, or go alone and explore the facilities to find your favorite spots. Moving between the baths and the rest areas, it would be easy to spend the whole day here without getting bored.
Traffic Conditions
If you’re driving, it takes about two hours from Tokyo. This distance makes it a convenient option for a short getaway. However, roads can become heavily congested during Japanese holidays and long weekends. One reason is that there isn’t a continuous expressway all the way to Atami.
In Japan, it’s more common for people to take vacations by combining national holidays with a few extra days off, rather than taking long breaks on regular weekdays. As a result, during holidays and vacation periods, traffic jams are almost guaranteed, and travel times can easily double or triple. I highly recommend traveling around Japan on weekdays, no matter where you go. If you must travel on a holiday, taking the train is your best option.
A shuttle bus operated by Atami Bay Resort runs between the resort and Atami Station for guests. It runs once or twice per hour, and if the timing works out, you can take it directly to the resort. Atami also has local buses, but with so many routes, it can be confusing for visitors. If you want to visit various places, I recommend taking a taxi instead. Using a taxi-hailing app can make getting around much easier.
Avoiding Traffic Congestion
Traffic in Atami can be heavy during weekends and Japanese public holidays. To ensure a smooth journey, traveling on weekdays is highly recommended. If you must visit on a holiday, taking the train like the Saphir Odoriko or the Shinkansen is the best way to avoid long delays.
Returning & Souvenirs
After returning to Atami Station on the resort’s shuttle bus, we spent a little time shopping for souvenirs in the shopping streets and inside the station building. The area around Atami Station is lined with long arcade streets, with many shops extending even into the smaller side alleys.
Since Atami has been a popular tourist destination for many years, the atmosphere has a nostalgic charm. Walking through the town, I felt a strange and wonderful sensation, as if I had traveled back in time—a peaceful moment that made me forget the busy world for a while.
Atami has seen a resurgence in popularity in recent years, and new shops are opening up. However, it’s also a great destination for those who want to experience the nostalgic, traditional atmosphere. Many Japanese tourists visit for that very reason.
Our Return Trip
For our return trip, we chose the Tokaido Shinkansen bullet train, which takes about 50 minutes to reach Tokyo.
The fare, including the train ticket, is around ¥6,000 (approx. $38.0 / €32.7). I love taking a relaxing train ride to my destination and then returning home quickly and efficiently. This travel style allows me to enjoy the luxury of the journey while finishing the trip smoothly.
For the return Shinkansen, I chose a seat on the left side, hoping to enjoy the evening mountain scenery. Unlike regular limited express trains, the Shinkansen travels at impressive speeds. On the route from Atami, we passed through several tunnels, which caused our ears to pop a few times. If you’re sensitive to pressure changes, bringing earplugs might be a good idea. Despite this, the ride was very comfortable, and by the end, feeling reassured that we would soon arrive in Tokyo, I found myself dozing off a little.
Food Souvenirs
This time, I bought a sweet called kuro-mugi manju, a relatively new specialty of Atami that is made locally.
Manju is a traditional Japanese confection made from steamed wheat dough, usually filled with sweet red bean paste. This particular manju is known for its soft, chewy texture, and the smooth bean filling blends perfectly with the dough. Because it is handmade, it only keeps for about three days. Even so, it was absolutely delicious and quickly became one of my favorite sweets.
This manju contains mugikogashi, a roasted barley powder traditionally offered at Kinomiya Shrine. The roasted barley adds a toasty aroma that enhances the brown sugar flavor of the dough. In Atami, mugikogashi is considered a lucky ingredient, although it is not commonly used in manju. I especially enjoyed it because of its story and its connection to the local culture.
Atami Souvenir Picks
In recent years, the variety of souvenirs has greatly increased.
My criteria for choosing food souvenirs are:
- Local specialties
- Processed or packaged goods made from local specialties
- Products made locally
Souvenirs related to the following are recommended:
- Citrus fruits
- Guri-cha green tea
- Shiitake mushroom
- Wasabi
- Onsen manju
Guri-cha is a type of green tea unique to the Izu region. Unlike regular sencha, the leaves are not rolled into thin, needle-like shapes, but instead twisted into a rustic, curly form. This gives the tea a slightly mellow and smooth taste, with a gentle sweetness and mild vegetal notes, making it easy to enjoy even for those new to Japanese green tea.
Conclusion
This day trip to Atami turned out to be a perfect balance of relaxation, scenery, and small indulgences. From the refined comfort of the Saphir Odoriko to the soothing hot springs at Ocean Spa Fuua, every part of the journey felt thoughtfully designed to help us slow down and enjoy the moment.
Even within just a single day, we were able to experience local flavors, ocean views, and a peaceful atmosphere that felt far removed from the busy pace of Tokyo. Traveling with my mother made it even more meaningful, turning a short getaway into a memorable shared experience.
If you’re looking for a destination that offers both ease of access and a sense of escape, Atami is a wonderful choice.
Recommended For:
• Travelers looking for a relaxing day trip from Tokyo
• Train lovers and first-time luxury rail travelers
• Couples, solo travelers, or parent–child trips
• Visitors interested in hot springs without staying overnight
• Food lovers wanting to try local specialties
Check out my other train trip below:
Information
Information, prices and exchange rates are current as of my visit but may change. Please check official sites.
Train
- Saphir Odoriko Official English website
- JR-EAST Official English website
- Japan Rail Pass Official English website
Ecute Shinagawa
Masaru
Price as of my visit:
- Horse mackerel tataki set – ¥1,400 (approx. $8.8 / €7.6)
- Fried horse mackerel set – ¥1,300 (approx. $8.2 / €7.1)
- Access – About 0.7 mi (1.1 km) from Atami Station
Densuke Chaya
The restaurant we missed:
- Fried horse mackerel set – ¥2,800 (approx. $17.7 / €15.2)
- Access – About 1970 ft (600 m) from Atami Station
- Google Maps
Atami Bay Resort
- Official English website
- Access – About 1.6 mi (2.5 km) from Atami Station
Ocean Spa fuua
- Official English website
- Weekday Adult Fare – around ¥3,080 (approx. $19.5 / €16.7)
- Business Hours – 10:00 AM – 10:00 PM
(entry closes at 9:00 PM) - Non-alcoholic cocktail “Sunset Beach” – approx. ¥770 ($4.9 / €4.2)
Kuromugi Manju
- 1 piece – around ¥120 (approx. $0.8 / €0.7)
- Access – On the first floor of the Atami Station building, Lusca
- Google Maps
